The 1998 Lafite-Rothschild is served from double magnum directly from the château reserves, in fact with the man who made it sitting opposite me – Charles Chevalier. I must admit to being quite amazed how well this shows at 20-years of age, trouncing all the other First Growths except Haut-Brion. Lucid in colour, it has a vivid bouquet of pure blackberry, blueberry, vanilla and graphite, perhaps just a little uncharacteristically showy in style, but beautifully defined and intense. The palate is perfectly balanced with layers of ripe black fruit, perfectly pitched acidity and a silky smooth texture that renders this utterly seductive. It is almost too good for me to recommend cellaring longer. Whatever...it is a sublime Lafite-Rothschild that on this showing, may well challenge the supremacy of the 1996. (NM)

The vintage began with a dry spring followed by a hot August, giving grapes with thick skins and plenty of tannin and colour. Rain arrived at harvest, but because of earlier conditions, no damage was done. The final wine is 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot; just over a third of the grapes made it into the grand vin. Results were inconsistent – one bottle showed a tell-tale whiff of Brettanomyces tamping down the fruit, but a second bottle was much better, with clean, curranty fruit, rich texture, and silky tannins. When it is good, it is terrific. (CC)

Amazing aromas of crushed blackberries, toasted oak and currant, spices. Really a great nose. Full-bodied, with round and velvety tannins and a long, long finish. It lasts for minutes on the palate. Superb. Best wine of the Médoc, without a doubt. (JS)