As I have noted in the past, Togni holds back 100 cases of each vintage to be released at age ten. Although 1998 was a challenging vintage in California, this 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate has evolved into a beautiful wine. If you want to throw a California Cabernet into a blind tasting of first and second-growth Bordeaux, this is the wine to choose. A dead-ringer for a top-class Pauillac, it offers leafy, cedary, licorice, red and black currant, and roasted herb aromas. In the mouth, the Bordeaux-like austerity continues with noticeable tannin as well as a slightly dry finish. Nevertheless, this wine is showing well, although I would not hold it longer than 5-6 years, atypical for a Togni. (RP)