The 1963 Vintage Port from Taylor's remains a fabulous "Everest" of a fortified wine. It is still limpid in hue and has a compelling bouquet with ebullient black and blue fruit, singed leather, clove and tobacco, still retaining its floral elements. The palate is beautifully balanced with layers of fruit undiminished by the passing six decades. This bottle felt slightly lusher than previous examples, with touches of cassis that cloak the slightly viscous finish. Just fabulous. (NM)

The ’63 Taylor is a legend in the making, but unlike the 1970 that has been drinking well for many years already, the 1963 is still at least a dozen years away from its true apogee. I know that there are many port enthusiasts that have been happy drinking the 1963 Taylor for years already, but to my palate this is so obviously still on its way up that I have little desire to do anything but keep this resting comfortably in the cellar. The bouquet is deep and still very youthful, as it offers up a lovely blend of black cherries, plums, tobacco, herb tones, mint, a touch of tariness, cedar and a snapshot of the intense old Taylor spice garden that will come if given appropriate bottle age. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and powerfully built, with the iron backbone of this house, great acids, moderate tannins, and outstanding length and grip on the complex finish. As appealing as this wine is in its plump and black fruity middle age, I would strongly urge keeping hands off of it until all of the spice and orange zest elements emerge and add another layer to the aromatic fireworks.

This house must certainly be the Latour of Portugal. Their ports are remarkably backward yet still impressive when young. Of all the vintage ports, those of Taylor need the longest time to mature and even when fully mature seem to have an inner strength and firmness that keep them going for decades. Their tawnys are also among the very best, though somewhat expensive. The 1963 is quite fabulous yet still seemingly capable of developing for another decade or more. (RP)