Tasted in Sauternes with Charles Chevalier, the 1988 Rieussec is a vintage that Chevalier himself claimed to be his favorite. I can understand why. It has an unerringly youthful bouquet with vibrant citrus fruit, wild honey, mandarin and mineral scents, a bouquet that seems to have electricity flowing through it. The same can be said for the palate that is full of tension and vigor, almost clinical in terms of focus with alluring viscosity and wonderful length. This bowled me over with its charm and breeding. Hunt a bottle down and share with your best friends—this is a superlative Rieussec, one of the best produced. (NM)