Still a dark garnet/purple color that shows some lightening at the edge, this wine appears to be approaching a post-adolescent stage. A nose of earth, licorice, underbrush, and black fruits is followed by a medium-bodied wine with a lot of structure, muscle, tannin, and depth. Tannin is still present, but the wine is showing very complex aromatics and good sweetness on the attack. Very drinkable, yet capable of holding for at least another decade.

The 1988 Angélus, which Hubert de Boüard told me he considers his first real vintage, has a wide tawny rim as you would expect for a 30-year old wine. It has a very old school bouquet but one that I found utterly charming: dark berry fruit, leather, sage and fragrant pinecones, well defined with commendable vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannin. It is a little drier compared to the previous bottle tasted seven years ago, but it is well balanced with leather, white pepper, fennel and sage infusing the degraded red fruit. Yes, it is a little foursquare and conservative but it has aged impressively and still continues to give drinking joy. Tasted at the château. (NM)

Dark and rich. A bit dry and horsey. Thick and polished. Very dry finish. Nicely balanced and refined. Long. Vital and quite fresh. Drying end. Best value. 17/20 points (JR)