This bottle of 1983 Pichon-Lalande (I really can't be bothered to type out its full name) is the best of many encountered over the years. This offers gorgeous melted red fruit, woodbines, smoke and cigar humidor scents that could only come from Pauillac. Hints of black truffle and morels follow after about an hour in the glass. The palate displays lovely balance, poised and fresh, perhaps more vigor than I ever expected, with just a hint of dried blood on the finish. Impeccable provenance played a role here, but it is still a 1983 that should not be underestimated. (NM)

Bold pepper, savory and roasted cedar notes lead the way, with a core of steeped plum, macerated black currant and bitter cherry fruit. Extra tobacco, alder and juniper accents stud the finish, which still has plenty of grip. (JM)

This has always been one of my favourite wines of this underrated vintage. It is a testament to the success of this Chateau, which is possibly the most consistent performer of the decade. It has a wonderful herbaceous, savoury character, loaded with sweet red fruit on the nose which unfurls with time in the glass. Perfect integration of tannin with nice weight for a wine at 40 years of age. It has the lovely earthy character which you rarely find in warm vintages. The wine is has been at its apex for the last five years or so but there is absolutely no rush. (GB)