2023 Domaine Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

The Bonnes-Mares from Groffier is a burly, muscular wine as can often be the case in this appellation. The aromas range from ripe plum and cherry, to fresh flowers and a bit of peppery spice. The structure is tannic and dense, with plenty of tannins and the substance to age for the long term. The grapes are from one hectare, most of it planted on the iron-rich ‘terres rouge’ soils, but the parcel stretches the entire slope. The grapes were fermented mostly as whole clusters, and the wine is ageing at present in cask, half new. (Drink between 2030-2060)

The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was completely destemmed, like Groffier's other cuvées this vintage, and matured in 50% new oak. Unlike the Les Amoureuses, this needed time to open in the glass. Blackberry, briar, black pepper and light iris flower scents emerge with time, but this is a more bashful Bonnes-Mares for the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more backbone than the Amoureuses and perhaps more sapidity. It's maybe uncompromising in some ways, but nothing wrong with that. The Les Amoureuses has a little more sensuality, but this is still a very fine Grand Cru for long term aging. (Drink between 2030-2055)