2006 Bollinger "Vieilles Vignes Françaises" Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne

Bollinger makes about 170 cases of this, only in certain vintages. It is made from three plots of entirely ungrafted Pinot Noir farmed in the traditional en foule method, a super dense plantation (about 30,000 vines per hectare -- normal is 7,000!) where the vines are allowed to layer up. The sites in Ay consist of the 1/3-acre Clos St. Jacques and the half-acre Chaudes Terres, a walled garden directly behind Bollinger. I have stood in this second vineyard -- it looks ghastly; it is hard to imagine one of the best wines on the planet coming from it. It is a web of canes and gnarly old stumps, like a set out of the Lord of the Rings! They also have slightly less than half an acre in Bouzy called the Croix Rouge planted in the same fashion that goes into this wine. I remember when I first read in Michael Broadbent's Vintage Wine about the 'pre-phyloxera flavor' and jealously wondering what it would be like… The Vieilles Vignes Francaises Blanc de Noir delivers it! There is a strong resemblance to Quinta do Noval's Nacional, which is the hot climate equivalent of this exquisite Champagne. This Champagne has a taste like no other. It is the most expensive wine of any kind that I have ever purchased for myself personally, and it delivers value even at its bank-breaking price. It is truly a singular experience. If you are feeling flush, or just frivolous, and you like extremely rich, full-bodied Champagne that will last for decades, here it is! - Gary Westby