2008 Dom Pérignon "P2" Brut Champagne

The extra seven years of ageing on lees under cork versus the original Dom Pérignon 2008 release has wrapped up all the year's innate tension and brightness in an unabashedly decadent, enveloping richnnes of toasted nuts, fresh dough and gentle oyster cream, although the precision and integrity of the vintage is absolutely present, too. There are beautiful aromas of pure red strawberry and bergamot with some darker mocha notes emerging, both Chardonnay linearity and a surprisingly fragrant Pinot finding a perfect equilibrium. The palate carries the buzzing acidity of 2008 on a time-softened, ultra-silky mousse, with new details of umami savour tucked in subtly to the overall impression of glacial freshness. Perhaps unsurprisingly given the reputation of the original release, this is among the most memorable and energetic of the Plénitude releases made since the programme of late releases took the name in 2014. (TH)

A statuesque Champagne, with creamy viscosity to the mousse as it wraps around a frame of chiseled acidity. Crème de cassis, grilled macadamia nut, warm fig, tangerine peel, pastry cream and candied ginger notes are a rich and finely detailed weave of flavors that glides across the palate. A beauty, echoing fruit, spice and pastry elements, with an underlying streak of salinity on the long, long finish. Drink now through 2048. (AN)