2024 Domaine Moreau Naudet Chablis 1er Cru "Les Beauregards"

Once again vinified entirely in tank, the 2024 Chablis 1er Cru Beauregard unfurls in the glass with notes of white flowers, nashi pear, grapefruit and lime peel. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, racy and vibrant, concluding with a sapid, moderately persistent finish. This estate has seen no less than five generations, but it only marketed its first bottles in 1991. Today, Virginie Moreau presides over this 25-hectare domaine following the premature passing of Stéphane Moreau in 2016. The order of the day is organic farming (though without certification, which allows for the use of stronger treatments in more challenging vintages), harvesting ripe yet clean fruit cropped at modest yields and with extended maturation—18 months on the lees in a combination of used oak barrels (mostly 228-liter, averaging 10 years old) and stainless steel, with final settling in tank for two to four weeks. After a series of sunny vintages, Virginie has started to vinify more wine in tank (Montmains and Valmur are now matured entirely in stainless steel), as she believes this helps retain more of the classically Chablisien signatures. These wines are always concentrated and textural, among the most characterful to be found in Chablis. The range of premier cru bottlings is the focus at this address, typically attaining its apogee with the Forêts, Montée de Tonnerre and Vaillons bottlings. Their only grand cru, Valmur, is also well worth seeking out. However, long-term aging risks are.(KK)