The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne from Vincent Rapet is an outstanding example of this inimitable grand cru. The wine shows great depth and breed in its aromatic constellation of apple, pear, lemon, white lilies, fruit blossoms, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones, a touch of crème pâtissière, citrus zest and a judicious framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with great mineral drive and grip, a fine spine of acidity, superb balance and great length on the complex, precise and very, very classy finish. I love the backend energy here! This is a great wine in the making. (Drink between 2032-2075)

Another strong performance from Rapet, the 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of pear and crisp orchard fruit mingled with toasted nuts, white flowers and waxy citrus rind. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with a glossy, concentrated profile, excellent underlying cut and a long, mineral finish, it's a very good wine that still flies somewhat under the radar. The unassuming Vincent Rapet, whose family can trace its roots in Pernand back to 1795, is now joined by his son Robin at the helm of this historic 20-hectare domaine. There's a long track record here, and I can extol the merits of the domaine's older wines from personal experience: the 1979 is among the best mature examples of Corton-Charlemagne I've tasted. As I've written before, vinification is pretty classical, with the whites whole-cluster pressed and fermented in barrels (some 20% of which are new), including larger formats, as well as a few concrete eggs for some cuvées; Rapet believes them to give a more tensile, fresher profile to the wine. The reds, which have improved in recent years, see a brief cold soak, followed by some 15 days of maceration, maturing in around 30% new wood from carefully chosen sources, including Chassin and Taransaud.(WK)

A deeper purple here. Made from one old vine plot and one young, not picked together. A high-class energy to the nose, suggesting the hoped-for grip. A little burst of red fruit with some orange zest. Quite discreet, finesse despite the power, and very good length. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Oct 2023.