Graham is another great port house, producing one of the deepest-colored and sweetest styles of vintage port. Along with Taylor and Fonseca, Graham has probably been the most consistent producer of great port in the post- World War II era. Their tawnys are quite good rather than exceptional, but their vintage ports are truly sublime and sumptuous. (RP)

The 1963 Graham’s Vintage Port is mature in colour, with wide bricking on the rim and a mahogany core. It has an elegant, almost understated bouquet for a 1963, presenting scents of eucalyptus, antique bureau, clove and Chinese five-spice, all beautifully defined. The palate is very well balanced, silky smooth in texture and spiced with white pepper, touches of curry leaf and cracked black pepper. At 55 years of age, it is not a voluminous, opulent Vintage Port and it feels just a little faded. I suspect that maybe it peaked a few years back, but it will still give pleasure for a number of years. Just don’t expect fireworks. (NM)