2023 Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay "Boivin"

I did not realize until this visit that the domaine’s vines in les Boivins are fully one hundred years of age! I had written in the past that they were seventy-plus years of age, but Pierre-Jean corrected me on this count. The 2023 Boivins has turned out beautifully, revealing a deep and complex bouquet cassis, sweet dark berries, bitter chocolate, a superb base of soil, grilled meats, cedar and a touch of Mazy-Chambertin-like sweet herb tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and focused, with a superb core of fruit, fine soil inflection and grip, ripe tannins and a long, complex and very well balanced finish. This has a proper structural chassis, so some time in the cellar will be necessary to soften up its tannins. (Drink between 2032-2060)