2023 Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey Chambertin "Champs Chenys"

Back when I was still a wine merchant specializing in Burgundy, the Champs-Chenys was always the single vineyard bottling of Gevrey that I bought for my own cellar from the Roty family. I do not necessarily think that it is the best of the now four different cuvées, but it was always my favorite. The 2023 version is again excellent, revealing a vibrant and complex nose of dark berries, black cherries, grilled meats, dark chocolate, a superb base of soil, just a whisper of Gevrey mustard seed, woodsmoke and cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and already quite suave on the attack, with an excellent core of fruit, ripe tannins, lovely soil signature and a long, seamlessly balanced and promising finish. (Drink between 2033-2065)