The 2021 Barolo Cicala is packed with dark fruit, iron, gravel, incense, tobacco, dried herbs and chocolate. Time in the glass brings out a more mineral dimension, but the 2021 is a decidedly rich, ample Cicala. Even so, all the elements are very nicely balanced. I would give this a few years in bottle to come around. (AG)

Giacomo Conterno maintains that 2021 is a fantastic vintage to demonstrate differences of site. Case in point, the Cicala vineyard is separated only by forest from the nearby Colonnello and is characterised by blue calcareous clay with iron. Of the two, the 2021 Cicala is much more difficult to read at this early stage, somewhat overwhelmed by its potent structure and oak. A lifted nose eventually reveals vanilla, tobacco and even chocolate inflecting the dark cherry fruit. Very linear with slightly coarse, broad tannins, perhaps time – which is highly recommended – will allow its more subtle characteristics to emerge. (MM)