Before the DOC was founded in 1966, there was much more leeway to make wines how producers wanted. ‘There are no bottles of 1958 that are pure Nebbiolo, absolutely,‘ affirmed Angelo, explaining that Barbera was blended with Nebbiolo before the production rules were put in place. A selection of the estate's best lots, Gaja's Barbaresco at this time was normally released seven or eight years after harvest, and bottled to order. This museum piece, which predates Angelo's entry into the family business in 1961, shows perfumed, cedary dried red fruits and floral aromas, leading to a nutty palate expressing fully mature flavours of tobacco, black tea, earth, dried cherry and baked strawberry. There's good intensity but it lacks some of the vibrancy on display in the 1974 Barbaresco. Pure and fresh, it finishes with some subtle spices, tobacco, gentle dried cherry, and a herbal hint. Very impressive. (JB)