The 2020 Amarone della Valpolicella opens with a collage of baking spices, dried rosemary and balsamic-inflected black cherries. It is surprisingly energetic, with a cascade of tart red berry fruit offset by a tinge of sour citrus and cedary spice, all energized by zesty acidity. Long and lively, the 2020 leaves behind a subtle coating of fine tannins as nuances of tart raspberry fade. (EG)