The secretive world of Cognac remains one of the most poorly understood spirits categories, especially considering its broad popularity. Perhaps that lack of transparency is hurting the category, but nothing about Cognac is straightforward or simple. When I first visited the region, I was a young and ardent supporter of additive-free spirits, searching far and wide for excellent, unadulterated expressions to bring home to our customers. We found some very special lots here and there, but it was also clear that a great deal of additive-free Cognac needed those additives, or “blending materials,” as they preferred to call them, to feel complete. I was astounded by the doublespeak and subterfuge surrounding the subject, even among the most reputable houses, both large and small. When we raised the question at the wonderful Ragnaud-Sabourin estate, in the heart of Grande Champagne, the curtain was finally pulled back. Madame Ragnaud was remarkably open about the process, explaining that the wonderful Ragnaud products we knew were built in part around the extraordinary boisé the family had cultivated over many decades. Their oldest and most prized eaux-de-vie, once they had fallen below proof, were segregated and cared for with great reverence, then incorporated in increasingly generous proportions throughout the range. After tasting her exquisite example of the right way to use additives in Cognac, along with literally hundreds of undrinkable young additive-free Cognacs, not to mention plenty of fully dosed young Cognacs that were equally bad, our hardline view began to soften. At the same time, our appreciation grew for those rare producers capable of creating a beautifully balanced spirit without relying on the traditional tools of the trade. It was at that moment that the extraordinary brandies of the Dudognon estate rose in my mind above nearly all others. Their ability to produce such impeccable Cognac without additives suddenly seemed even more remarkable. The Dudognons’ admission that their refusal to use additives was not some dogmatic battle cry, but simply the result of never having learned those techniques, only reinforced the point. Their Cognac was not built around ideology. It was built around exceptional farming, distillation, aging, and instinct. The point of this story is to highlight just how difficult it is to create superlative young Cognac without high-quality boisé serving as the backbone of the blending process. Finding the balance between freshness, oak, fruit, spice, and all the other flavors we expect after only five or seven years in a spirit capable of aging for a century is almost unbelievable. So when we first encountered this special product, I was not remotely shocked to learn that it was intended to sell for more than $100. This batch was purpose-built to achieve a nearly impossible goal. Its quality far exceeds even my wildest expectations, and while I am not necessarily surprised that the producer could not sell through it at the original price, that does not mean it was not worth every penny they were asking. So here we are with an outrageously delicious Cognac, created around a commitment to avoid additives while still delivering a genuinely grandiose experience. Is it simply a younger, more affordable version of Dudognon? Let’s find out. The color is a surprisingly robust deep copper, around 1.0. Many, if not all, of the young additive-free Cognacs we have sold over the years have been closer to white wine or pale straw. Here, the aromas begin to emerge the moment the bottle is opened, and once poured, there is no need to wait for the magic to begin. The layered aromatic profile starts with expressive tropical fruit wrapped in baking spice, slathered in coconut cream, and dusted with cocoa powder. It is far less primary than expected, offering secondary and tertiary notes normally reserved for much older expressions from Grande Champagne. This may be the secret of Fins Bois on full display. When handled perfectly, the faster development associated with this supposedly lesser region can mimic the complexity of far older and more expensive Cognacs from Fine Champagne. With air, the oak and fruit integrate and expand, adding taut, exotic wood tones to the dried-fruit character. The palate opens with an absolutely perfect note of dark chocolate, followed by vibrant, juicy fruit that broadens beautifully through the mid-palate. The 90 proof is carried effortlessly, and a bold line of spice ties the exceptionally long finish together. Were we determined to nitpick, the only missing element might be the profound weight and density of truly old Grande Champagne. But I can point to only one producer capable of achieving that character without additives, and Dudognon needs more than 20 years and two or three times the price to get there. At this price, for as long as it lasts, this exceptional brandy surpasses everything else in the category for sheer value. It is affordable enough to throw around in a summer cocktail, yet deep and complex enough to pour contemplatively for several hours in front of the fire. There is simply no reason to buy another Cognac under $50 right now. The headlines may insist that no one is drinking Cognac, but I would argue that no one should be drinking anything but this. It is a tremendous deal by any measure. Load up while you can. I bought everything I could get my hands on, but opportunities like this have a habit of disappearing far faster than anyone expects.