Castello Romitorio’s 2021 Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta is a striking expression of the vintage, sourced from a site at 270 meters in elevation on bluish galestro schist that lends power, focus and a distinct mineral edge. Planted in 1995 to old Sangiovese clones that produce naturally small clusters, the vineyard yields compact, dark fruit accented by mint and rosemary, echoing the surrounding forested landscape. A barrel selection from the 2.5-hectare site, this wine shows greater definition and density than the village Brunello, with vertical structure, poised acidity and a glossy, tightly knit texture. Fresh and bright yet richly layered, it closes on a beautifully balanced, sweet finish, gaining volume with air. Production is limited to 6,500 bottles. (ML)

Macerated plum, cherry, blackberry, iron and eucalyptus flavors are the hallmarks of this fresh, invigorating red. Shows harmony and a juicy midpalate before the malleable tannins leave their grip on the finish. Spice and salty mineral accents add detail. Balanced and super long, this reveals excellent potential. Best from 2030 through 2050. (BS)

This bottling is crafted from a selection of older vines on the estate's lower altitude plots. It captures the wild elements of its surroundings – all roots and bitter herbs with mint, tarragon and cinnamon sprinkled in. Despite obvious fruit ripeness and unabashed concentration, the 2021 remains buoyant in its seductive, cushioned layers. Velvety textured tannins sneak up with a firmness of grip. Roasted oak notes poke through but it is the piercing minerals that drive the finish. Owner Filippo Chia assures me that there will be a Reserve bottling of this; I can’t wait to try it when it is released in 2027. (MM)