The 2018 Pinot Noir Perli Vineyard comes from vines located just north of the border of Sonoma and Mendocino counties, planted on very rugged, steep, rocky slopes at about 1,000 feet in elevation. Proprietor Mark McWilliams jests that this site comes from the same ridge as vines for Marcassin and Hirsch, "but on the wrong side of the tracks, the wrong side of the county line." The Mendocino-appellated wine has a medium ruby color, and the nose bursts with powerful black cherries, mushroom, tobacco and tar with pure touches of graphite and violet. The palate is brimming with intense, savory fruits, powerful and spicy and finishing with tremendous length. What a singular expression! (EB)