2021 Petrolo "Boggina B" Trebbiano Toscana

Aromatic and pliant, with superb persistence. Lemon confit, white flowers, mint and a hint of reduction add character. (AG)

The fruit is Trebbiano Toscano in purity, drawn from old material originally selected in the Valdarno and planted in the 1970s in the Poggio parcel, since replanted below the historic Bòggina vineyard using the same clones. Farming is organic, the harvest manual and sorted by hand. What follows is where the wine earns its seriousness: natural fermentation with indigenous yeasts in French oak tonneaux, then better than fifteen months sur lie, with bâtonnage tapering off through the early months and no racking until bottling. It's a Burgundian playbook applied to a grape most people still associate with dilute cooperative whites — and the gap between that reputation and what's in the glass is the whole point. Valentini level at a 1/4 of the price.