Still ludicrously affordable by the standards of the world's greatest bottles, this stunning Albariño showcases the quality of a 1.7-hectare parcel that dates back to 1790, making it by far the oldest vineyard in Rías Baixas. A wine that makes you want to break into song, this has a hint of granitic reduction, near perfect poise and balance, lime, white pepper and citrus peel flavours and a finish that lasts for over a minute on the palate. What grace! What purity! What intensity!