The 2023 Chardonnay Escolle Vineyard is incredible. There is so much structure and gracefulness to the wine, fresh and crisp yet rich in medium-bodied tropical creaminess and fleshy texture. The Hyde clone leads the way, mixed with other clones, the wine pressed in the producer’s Coquard Champagne press before fermentation in stainless steel, then aged on a small amount of the lees in half-new French oak puncheon for four months or so. This is a next-level white, half honeycomb and peanut brittle, half Mandarin orange. Drink now through 2035.