Another ridiculously good barrel from our friends at Stoddard Spirits. Bill Binder is one of those guys whom everybody simply loves. His genuine love for this business is infectious, his legitimacy as an arbiter of taste is unquestionable, and his ability to connect with people is unparalleled. While he cut his teeth behind the bar, he is the ultimate front-of-house curator, making everyone who crosses his path feel welcome and special. So it is no surprise that his good name and equally good intentions have brought about one of the most remarkable partnerships this industry has ever seen. There are brands that have claimed to source whiskey from the famed Willett Distillery, but the mere public mention of that relationship could be enough to bring it to an end. Willett is fiercely protective of its trade name and contractual obligations. They have certainly created collaborative releases before, but never have they allowed their name to be used in association with products sold under another brand. It is therefore a significant coup that Bill and his team have secured access to this incredible source. Even more interesting is that the barrels they are sourcing represent some of Willett’s most prized and unusual experiments. This wonderful bourbon is proof that some of the experimental mashbills produced at Willett can occasionally outshine even the best Estate stocks. I honestly cannot remember a seven-year-old WFE tasting this good, although this whiskey remains distinctly outside the normal Willett profile. That is likely why it was never adopted as a core expression, rather than because of any issue with its quality or character. I think I’m ready. The color is a full, shimmering auburn (1.5). The nose, admittedly after the bottle had been open for a week and was already one-quarter gone, is extremely expressive, showing signs of maturity well beyond the age statement. Deep red cherry compote, stunning whipped caramel sauce, gingersnaps, hipster light-roast coffee, sarsaparilla bark, kola nut, sandalwood, and nutmeg all come pouring from the glass. On the palate, the red fruit dominates at first, with a juiciness that completely subdues the tannins. More stone fruit emerges through the midpalate alongside strong baking spice, strawberry candy, and exotic wood notes. The back end dries up beautifully, keeping the whiskey from feeling overly confectionary, while the tiniest hint of earthy, almost Wild Turkey-like funk provides balance. The lengthy finish brings back the clove-driven spice and a seemingly endless wave of candied red fruit. This barrel is both extremely distinctive and genuinely distinguished. A casual observer who does not understand the extraordinary care that went into crafting this special bourbon might scoff at the price-to-age ratio. For the initiated, who understand just how compelling even these younger barrels can be, the quality and potential here will be impossible to ignore.