Smoky pungency, spiced pear, prunelle, and creme de cassis aromas announce the 2006 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese. An ethereal slick of pure botrytis secretions and pasted, over-ripe mango seems to coat the palate, just as its peppery, smoky pungency can’t be brushed away. Polished but (after the creaminess of so many Spatlesen) surprisingly firm in feel, this finishes with honeyed richness, intense berry sap and pungency, and underlying notes of coffee-mocha. It will certainly follow a fascinating course over at least the next quarter century. (DS)