A mouthwatering, mineral-driven Champagne, with chalk, oyster shell and saline notes underscoring the ripe green apple, pineapple and pastry dough flavors, plus verbena, marzipan and anise accents. There’s an invigorating, chiseled feel, yet this offers plenty of fleshy fruit flavors. The mousse is creamy in texture, resulting in fine balance and focus throughout. Drink now through 2035. (AN)

The 2020 L'Esprit de 2020 is brisk, finely cut and refreshing. Lemon peel, orchard fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper are all beautifully delineated in the glass. There's terrific precision and energy. Savory, slightly vegetal notes linger in the background but don’t overpower the wine, even though they have become more apparent over time, perhaps also because of the slightly lower dosage for this release. I advise drinking this over the next few years. Dosage is 4.2 grams per liter. Disgorged: November 2025. (AG)