Always the most structured of the estate's Barbarescos, the 2022 Sorì San Lorenzo, made with grapes grown in the Secondine MGA, opens with aromas of forest floor, ripe fruit and a balsamic whiff of camphor. Still rather closed and surprisingly austere for the forward vintage, the full-bodied, firmly structured palate features mature black cherry, raspberry, star anise and baking spice set against a backbone of close-knit tannins that give the finish a good grip. This needs several more years to fully develop and will offers years of pleasure.(KO)

The Gaja 2022 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo offers an angular or chiseled bouquet that is vertical, taut and full of tension. This wine always has that nervous character that bodes well for its future bottle evolution. Pressed flowers and roses are followed by chalky mineral and black salt. The 2022 vintage is a little bigger, with broader shoulders than most, but it delivers lots of pleasure and a beautiful, elegant drinking experience. (ML)

The 2022 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo is a dense, potent wine. Black cherry, scorched earth, leather, incense and gravel stain the palate. Sorì San Lorenzo is often virile and somber, as it is here, but the 2022 does not quite have the dimension of most years. Perhaps that will emerge over time. We will see. (AG)