A rather exotic and wild Sori San Lorenzo. Even flamboyant. Dried flowers and spices with bark, mushroom and dried dark cherry. Perfumed and primary with earth. Full-bodied and juicy with such fine velvety tannins that are layered and superb. So classic and soft on the palate with great length. Give this four to five years, but a classic in the making. Try after 2029.

Last to be tasted and the most powerful in this series of single-vineyard wines is the Gaja 2021 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo. This vintage delivers striking intensity that is focused and pure. Dark berry fruit is surrounded by spice, earth and licorice. The tannins are quite present in the San Lorenzo, especially in this vintage, and ideally this bottle should see many more years of bottle evolution. With so many decades of family history behind this site, San Lorenzo's excellence is an enduring symbol of the creativity and expertise of the Gaja legacy. (ML)