This is so good, so much energy and depth, slate and wet stones holding interest and the palate expands, showing fragrant capsicum pepper, crushed mint, toasted spices, cumin, liquorice, cassis, cocoa bean, fully in the DNA of Smith Haut Lafitte. Harvest 1 to 30 September, and here they paused over that rain of September 23, as did Château Margaux - both estates were richly rewarded for this choice. 50% new oak for ageing. Last vintage of Daniel Cathiard, and expect a label commemorating the remarkable impact he had on this brilliant estate.

So aromatic and expressive, with pure currants and mint, plus some chocolate. Fennel too. Wow. Medium- to full-bodied with very deep fruit, fine, velvety tannins and a long, fine texture. The precision and depth are impressive. More fruit-driven than usual. It grows on the palate and is compact at the end. Very cabernet in the end. Almost like St.-Julien and Pauillac in nature. A blend of 68% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot.

Beautifully crisp and clear aromas, dark fruit, precise and expressive. Smokey violets and ripe blackcurrants with white chocolate. Fresh and vivid, this is vibrant and so clear but still with a round and filling texture. Maybe a more delicate take from Smith with the minerality much more present than in some vintages but there’s excellent length, hints of spice and bitterness as well as a lifted finish. Very gravelly, salty, chalky and cool. Balanced, elegant and totally delicious. Not as Smith as some, less dense and fleshy, but there’s no denying this is approachable. A little less smooth and velvety, this is more crunchy, chalky and grippy than usual but no less compelling (GH)