Derived from the lieu-dit of Montmains and aged in around 25% wood (averaging 10 years old), the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains wafts from the glass with a bouquet of white flowers, green apple and iodine. Medium to full-bodied, taut and precise, with ample chalky structuring extract and a racy spine of acidity, it concludes with a long, mineral finish. It is beautifully balanced and will marry exceptionally with raw seafood like oysters and fish carpaccio. Jean-Claude Bessin officially retired, handing over the reins to his sons, Romain and Antoine. Today, Romain is responsible for work in the vineyards, while Antoine manages the cellar. What was formerly Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin has been rechristened Domaine Bessin-Tremblay—Romain's mother, the source of many of the domaine's vineyards, being a Tremblay. The name may have changed, but the quality at this 12.3-hectare domaine in La Chapelle Vaupelteigne remains just as impressive.(KK)

The 2022 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a fragrant, well-defined and quite mineral-driven bouquet with real drive and energy. The palate is crisp and fresh, with bright acidity and citrus-driven fruit, finishing with a twist of bitter lemon. Excellent, but with long-term potential. Bottled under Diam 10 Origine. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.(NM)

A background hint of reduction blurs the nuances of the more floral-,suffused nose that also offers better overall Chablis character. There is more refinement to the more obviously mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a notably dry though not especially austere finale. This is lovely and in particular I like the balance.*Burghound Outstanding!*