Bessin-Tremblay’s 2022 Chablis 1er Cru La Forêt—a wine that in less-favorable years such as 2021 and 2024 becomes an ingredient in Montmains bottling—has turned out nicely. Opening in the glass to reveal notes of fresh hazelnuts, acacia, fennel and citrus peel, it’s medium to full-bodied, intense and crisp, with tangy acidity and a long, sapid finish. Chablis purists will enjoy comparing this with Montmains. Jean-Claude Bessin officially retired, handing over the reins to his sons, Romain and Antoine. Today, Romain is responsible for work in the vineyards, while Antoine manages the cellar. What was formerly Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin has been rechristened Domaine Bessin-Tremblay—Romain's mother, the source of many of the domaine's vineyards, being a Tremblay. The name may have changed, but the quality at this 12.3-hectare domaine in La Chapelle Vaupelteigne remains just as impressive.(KK)