More open-kint and slightly more broad-shouldered than the left bank’s Montmains and La Forêt, Bessin-Tremblay’s 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume is an expressive wine, wafting from the glass with aromas of beeswax, green apple and iodine. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, bright and precise, laden with racy acidity and reserves of chalky structuring extract, concluding with a long, mineral finish. This too comes highly recommended. Jean-Claude Bessin officially retired, handing over the reins to his sons, Romain and Antoine. Today, Romain is responsible for work in the vineyards, while Antoine manages the cellar. What was formerly Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin has been rechristened Domaine Bessin-Tremblay—Romain's mother, the source of many of the domaine's vineyards, being a Tremblay. The name may have changed, but the quality at this 12.3-hectare domaine in La Chapelle Vaupelteigne remains just as impressive.(KK)