Real power simmers underneath this inviting version, with beautiful range to its notes of juicy stone fruit, pickled ginger, dried flowers and warm lentil on a streamlined frame. There’s briny cut to the full-bodied, round palate, which hums with salty energy that promises a long life ahead. Drink now through 2040.—K.B.

The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Axpoint Smaragd comes from deep loess, serving as a counterpoint to Rotes Tor. Its shy nose gives very little away. The palate is gentle in savor, with a subtle touch of white asparagus and a tender hint of mild miso, all presented on a super-smooth body. Juicy zestiness appears on the finish, along with a little heat.(AK)