Smoky and oily in feel, this reveals simmering power behind its mineral wall, supporting fleshy white fruit, chamomile, celeriac and meadow blossom notes. Salty and structured, with lemony freshness breezing through. Just beginning to unwind its densely packed core, this is one for the cellar. Drink now through 2040.—K.B.

The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg is restrained on the nose, yet reveals crushed sage, crushed pepper and a hint of white stone fruit. Creaminess and a supple texture soothe the yeast and pith on the concentrated palate. Freshness makes this mouthwatering and leaves a gorgeous spice of crushed fern and lemon on the finish. The wine shows the substance of the warm site but dazzles with freshness.(AK)