Fully on the La Morra side of Brunate, Oddero’s single plot at the top of the sub-district once struggled to ripen in the cooler climes of the past. As such, it was blended into the estate’s classic Barolo. In 2022, it continues to shine on its own. Discreetly awaft with medicinal herbs, tobacco and smoke, the nose conveys a moody overtone. Dark forest berries lurk at the core with hints of iris root and orange peel. This has slightly more power than flesh. Powdery tannins cling persistently. Not quite ready to divulge itself. (MM)

Fully on the La Morra side of Brunate, Oddero’s single plot at the top of the sub-district once struggled to ripen in the cooler climes of the past. As such, it was blended into the estate’s classic Barolo. In 2022, it continues to shine on its own. Discreetly awaft with medicinal herbs, tobacco and smoke, the nose conveys a moody overtone. Dark forest berries lurk at the core with hints of iris root and orange peel. This has slightly more power than flesh. Powdery tannins cling persistently. Not quite ready to divulge itself. (AG)

The Oddero 2022 Brunate opens with aromas recalling underbrush, leather, violet, hazelnut and oak-driven spice. Quite austere, the firm palate offers dried cherry, licorice, vanilla and blood orange accompanied by a backbone tightly woven, close-grained tannins that grip the finish. Give the tannins time to unclench then drink sooner rather than later before the remaining fruit vanishes. (KO)