The 2014 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is the first vintage of this cuvée that's spent long enough on its lees to be vintage dated. Unwinding in the glass with a lovely bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil, beeswax and dried white flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, vinous and intense, with a racy spine and chalky back-end grip that's allied, as usual, with rare ripeness and amplitude. It's so lively and vibrant that I feel confident in anticipating two decades' longevity. (WK)