Bouchard's 2018 Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules is a particular success, wafting from the glass with aromas of white flowers, crisp red apple, clear honey, wet stones and crushed mint. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, it's pure, racy and concentrated, with impressive tension and finesse that transcends this frequently blowsy, open-knit vintage. Exigent agronomy and timely harvesting pays off, once again. (WK)