Expressive notes of yellow peach, candied ginger, pastry and spice are seamlessly married to mouthwatering acidity a finely detailed bead in this bright, harmonious Champagne. Drink now through 2020. (AN)

The new release of Alfred Gratien non-vintage Brut offers up lovely aromatic complexity already, wafting from the glass in a classy blend of apple, white peach, fresh-baked bread, a fine base of soil and a touch of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and nicely balanced, with a good core, frothy mousse, fine focus and grip and a long, youthful finish. I wish the house would relent and put a bit of technical detail on the back label of their bottlings, but there is not even a snippet of information on their website about the wine! In any case, it is quite tasty and a very good value. (Drink between 2018-2030)

Light, bright gold. Sexy smoke- and mineral-laced aromas of ripe citrus and orchard fruits, plus with a suave floral overtone and a late hint of vanilla. Sappy and seamless on the palate, offering pliant orange and yellow apple flavors and a bracing jolt of chalky minerals. Closes with repeating smokiness and strong thrust, leaving a subtle honey note behind. (JR)