The Bollinger R.D. (recently disgorged) is Bollinger's answer to a prestige cuvée. Keeping the wine long on its lees (this was disgorged in June 2006) yields a wine that is very much in the rich Bollinger style. This is a beautifully balanced wine, with acidity, intensity and structure in perfect harmony. It is still so young, and certainly could age for years. *Cellar Selection* (RV)

Disgorged in 2013, this bottle of Bollinger's 1996 Extra-Brut R. D. vindicates the house's decision to harvest late in this high-acid vintage, as even though the 1996 has a notably low pH of 2.93, the wine also possesses the maturity of fruit to balance it. Bursting with aromas of golden orchard fruit, crème brûlée, espresso roast, spices, warm bread, smoke and honeycomb, with time in the glass hints of dried fruits and marmalade emerge. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and vinous, with a textural attack and an ample core of fruit that's complemented by a pearly mousse, concluding with a long, saline, bone-dry finish. This is the best bottle of the 1996 R. D. I've ever encountered. (WK)

The 1996 R.D. (2012 disgorgement) is in a gorgeous spot right now. A stunning set of aromas and flavors have developed in bottle, making the 1996 a real treat to taste and drink at this stage. Scents of coffee, hazelnut, honey, dried flowers, menthol and candied orange peel all lift from the glass. Mature and yet also quite fresh, with terrific nuance, the 1996 R.D. is a terrific example of the timeless beauty that only Champagne can deliver. (AG)