Unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, licorice, rose petals and spices, Bouley's 2020 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune is medium to full-bodied, vibrant and fleshy, with refined tannins, bright acids and a long, mouthwatering finish. As I wrote last year, it's produced from vines located directly above the village from a parcel that touches the commune of Volnay; and if the somewhat cooler, stony site informs the wine's structure, Bouley's viticulture, winemaking and élevage lends it a plenitude and finesse that transcend outdated preconceptions of the appellation. (WK)