This 26-year-old has a clear, blood-red hue and a fully mature though wonderfully aromatic character: graceful, accessible and well-ordered. Allusions you might find include pine honey, wild mushrooms, dusty leaves at the end of summer and cured meats hanging over an open fireplace. A magnificent palate, too, though again at full maturity for me: plum, prune and raisin notes, all somehow singed by time into a dark, bitter-edged fruitcake-and-tobacco intensity. The supporting tannins are still superb, but the quality of the fruit and the nature of the allusions suggest full maturity now. (AJ)