The 2008 Brut Blanc de Blancs, picked in the Côte des Blancs, underwent full malolactic fermentation and spent over ten years on lees. Lemon and wet chalk are distinct yet subtle on the nose, with their salty, bright, precise trail continuing onto the palate, where deeper saltiness reigns. This wine manages to be rich, smooth and sinuously slender and linear at the same time, with deep, delicious, umami-resonant savoriness. It is a wonderful wine of great elegance, with superb freshness and youthfulness. Lovely now, with nuance and even an overtone of licorice, but certain to evolve. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. (AK)