Straw green. Rich, ripe quince and pear aromas are lifted by a lemony nuance. Dense for Sylvaner, with archetypical green apple, quince and cilantro flavors. This is ripe but far from overripe, and finishes resolutely dry. A lovely Sylvaner that will prove wonderful as an aperitif or with vegetable entrees or fresh-water fish dishes. Made from 70-year-old vines on a low-lying slope that still produces a healthy 45 to 50 hectoliters per year. "It's just too beautiful a vineyard to rip up," Totolli told me, "and the wine is so good that we hope this old-timer lives a long and healthy life.” (ID)