The 2004 Terra di Lavoro is off the charts. Everything is in perfect balance. Silky, refined tannins frame an explosive core of dark red fruit, smoke, minerals, ash, bacon fat, leather and minerals. The 2004 continues to develop exquisitely in the glass, with layers of aromatics, fruit and structure that continue to blossom over the course of several hours. The 2004 still needs bottle age, as it is incredibly primary. Its elegance, however, is impossible to miss. This bottle is simply out of this world. It now seems pretty obvious I underestimated the wine when I first tasted it a few years ago. One day the 2004 will be viewed in the same league with Mastroberardino’s famous 1968 Taurasis as among the most monumental wines ever made in southern Italy. (AG) 97+