2023 Planeta Etna Rosso

Planeta might be a massive name in Sicily, but their operation on the northern slopes of Mount Etna is entirely focused on raw, volcanic expression. If you want a wine wrapped in commercial luxury or heavy oak, look away. This 2023 Rosso is 100% Nerello Mascalese grown in jet-black ash, and it is built strictly on tension. The aromatics are feral and distinctly alpine. It leaps from the glass with a sharp, high-toned blast of crushed pumice, wild mountain strawberry, and a smoky, savory veil of ash and dried herbs. There is absolutely zero sweet fruit masking the terroir; it smells incredibly cool and intellectual. On the palate, it vibrates with pure, nervous energy. It drives completely vertical, snapping tight with a razor-sharp spine of acidity and a fiercely "crunchy" core of tart red fruit. The tannins are ultra-fine but incredibly strict—dusty, volcanic, and demanding. It finishes bone-dry with an electric, saline cut that completely resets the palate. A tense, unapologetic mountain wine with serious architectural grip that demands a plate of roasted wild mushrooms or grilled lamb.