The 2004 Dom Pérignon is another great classic in the making, and this is one of those vintages that will truly deserve all of thirty years’ worth of bottle age, so that it can fully blossom and deliver fully its formidable potential. The beautiful bouquet delivers a refined still youthful constellation of green apple, menthol, salty minerality, white flowers, a touch of iodine and already, the first hints of the crème patissière to come with more bottle age. On the palate the wine is pure, full and very racy in personality, with a lovely core, excellent complexity, refined mousse and superb focus and grip on the very long and energetic finish. This is still a puppy and needs several more years in the cellar to start to blossom, but it will be stunning once it reaches its plateau of peak maturity. Expect it to first start to properly open at age twenty and really hit its stride at age thirty and beyond. 96+

Next to the the layered and characterful P2, the standard release of Dom Pérignon is aligned, integrated and content at 20 years of age, far from inward or simple yet still boasting tremendous brightness to its clementine, sugared pears and caramelised citrus aromas. There’s a crisp, toasted hazelnut biscuit snap here, super clean and easy, just wrapped in some oyster shell complexity that lifts up the seriousness. There’s no rush to drink this in 75cl bottle, although there’s certainly little to lose by popping the corks now. (TH)

A graceful Champagne, with minerally drive. Firm acidity and a rich vein of smoky mineral meshes with the plush texture, offering finely woven flavors of mirabelle jam, toasted brioche, crunchy pear, honey and smoked almond. Delivers a long, mouthwatering finish. *Collectible* (AN)