Here’s an unforgettable wine that absolutely makes the case for 2007 being one of the best vintages of late in Montalcino. The wine is broad and polished with masculine tones of dark fruit, leather and tobacco. These aromas evolve so quickly and with such pulsing intensity, the wine comes alive suddenly. There are dusty mineral shadings at the back with tightly textured tannins. Hold 10 more years. *Cellar Selection*

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is another super- finessed wine. Subtle floral notes meld into expressive red berries in a sumptuous Brunello that captures the essence of the vintage. The style is rich and deeply textured, but the 2007, as outstanding as it is, needs at least a few more years in bottle. Once again, finesse rules the day. (AG)

Beginning to mellow now after 10 years, revealing a bouquet of leather, licorice, macerated cherry, iron and cigar box. Very fresh, lively and focused, with sweet cherry and plum fruit at the core, firm, refined tannins and a long aftertaste of leather and stone. (BS)