Prior to regulation changes in 2016, 600 metres was the upper limit for Brunello di Montalcino. From a single vineyard which sits on a sandstone plateau at 621 metres above sea level, this first release of Passo del Lume Spento is particularly significant, not just for Le Ragnaie but for the entire region especially as it corresponds with the blistering 2017 vintage. A harbinger of the future? It exhibits fresh aromas of lavender and fennel with warm, fragrant earth and a subtle smokiness. A mid-weight, crunchy, sinewy wine, it tastes of red berries squeezed from rocky earth, accompanied by tangy acidity. (MM)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Passo del Lume Spento lifts up with a delicate bouquet of sweet herbs and tobacco, incredibly lifted yet spicy, and a bit exotic, as a flourish of mineral-laden crushed stone fills the glass. It’s silky-smooth and savory, presenting a pure display of wild berries enlivened by bright acidity and a salty flourish. This tapers off lean and mineral in nature, with grippy tannins offset by a burst of sour citrus. The Passo del Lume Spento hails from what Riccardo Campinoti believes is currently the highest-elevation vineyard-producing Brunello in the region, at 621 meters. It found a very pretty balance in the 2017 vintage. (EG)

South-facing alberello, or bush vine, vineyard on very rocky soil at 620 m elevation. Large temperature differences between day and night. This is the first vintage. Lustrous and just mid ruby with orange tinges. Lots of concentration and yet not rich. Deep cherry aroma. Surprisingly high in acidity but melts into the fruit on the finish, which is layered with powdery tannins. Nervy and just escapes being tart, with long perfumed fruit. (WS)