Aromas of forest floor, violet, woodland berries and camphor shape the expressive nose on this riveting red. Structured yet smooth, the focused, savory palate boasts an almost weightless elegance as well as intensity, delivering juicy Morello cherry, blood orange, licorice and tobacco. Firm, refined tannins and fresh acidity provide support and balanced. (KO)

Extremely elegant and fine, the Roagna 2016 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti is another protagonist of this estate's old-vine series. These are some of the top expressions of Nebbiolo you will find on the market today, and these late releases have the added benefit of being from the iconic 2016 vintage that produced beautifully age-worthy wines across the board. The Montefico has ample power and structure that comes up from behind, slowly. It also shows pinpoint aromas of dark fruit, licorice and pressed violet that extend the wine's long finish. (ML)

The 2016 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti is a big, statuesque wine. Of all the 2016 Barbarescos, the Montefico seems to be the wine that is still recovering most from its bottling, about two months before this tasting. The vertical structure of Montefico is evident, as are the intense tannins. Deeply savory and mineral, the Montefico is a wine for readers who can afford to wait for it. (AG)