Medium red. Perfumed, high-toned aromas of redcurrant, licorice, marzipan, graphite, menthol and fresh herbs. Suave and vibrant on entry, leaner than the 2007 Cicala that preceded it in my tasting but showing superb cut and energy. Compellingly dense and silky in the middle, with a terrific light touch and a strong savory quality to its red fruit, graphite and menthol flavors. An essence of Barolo in its restrained sweetness, outstanding intensity and tactile, juicy finish. According to Giacomo Conterno, Gran Bussia is from fruit picked at the very beginning of the harvest, 70% Romirasco old vines and 15% each Cicala and Colonello. Incidentally, there's no 2007 Romirasco or Gran Bussia owing to hail. (ST) 96+

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Granbussia represents a selection of fruit from the oldest vines. This is an elegant and pure expression of Nebbiolo that shows a dark ruby hue and deeply finessed aromas of wild berry, wet earth, iron, black truffle and some sweet baking spice. This is an elegant and synthetic interpretation of the greater Bussia cru that extends down the crest of a long hill from Monteforte d'Alba to Barolo. The finish is elegant, silky and fine. Only 2,900 bottles were made. (ML)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is shaping up to be one of the great wines of the vintage. The bouquet is classic Barolo to the core. Pure rose petals, tar, licorice, orange peel and leather. The 2005 is a wine of contrasts. It is at once powerful yet delicate, rich yet weightless. In other words, it captures all of the elements that make Nebbiolo such a fascinating grape. Both bottles I tasted were spectacular. (AG) 95+